the solitude of surfaces: August 2012

Friday, August 24, 2012

Phil Ciccone was a local surf kayaker at topanga.

He was usually one of the first die hard souls out each morning if there were waves. Despite being a kayaker, Phil made his way into the lineup and fought it out with everyone else. Phil went missing from the lineup for awhile about a year ago and when he resurfaced he shared the difficult news that he had been hospitalized battling colorectal cancer.

Phil told us of how getting back to surfing was one of the strongest motivations pushing him through his recovery. I was especially touched by learning this as my own mother had just pulled through as a survivor of the exact same type of cancer and recovery program. It was comforting for us both to hear about the similarities of experiences, difficulties and setbacks, fears, and ultimate healing. From then on, whenever i met Phil in the lineup, i always appreciated his generosity in always asking how my mother was doing. Despite whatever pain he may have been in, you could tell that he was where he wanted to be doing what he loved, and in that content.

As I always questioned when my mother was in a bad place, 'why do certain people have to go?'..The best ones at that; the best consolation I found is in the hope that they're headed to a much better place to rest. In honor of Phil, i know that place is where the rights will always be lined up, perfect, and filled with the memories of good friends.

Much Aloha to you Phil.

Brad.

Breathtaking lack of structure

Nice rendering by the way.

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Rain on the sea

Always a particularly calming experience. Rain on the ocean has a way of creating a smoothing of surfaces. A moment of stillness between the turbulence.

Pantone skin matching

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Sunday, August 12, 2012

Milled surfaces

Cubic

Sol Lewit_ incomplete cubes

Or spatial retaining bars, edge of a city series.

Bouldering paths

Mark Richards

The wounded gull, circa 1977 on oahu. I remember watching the tail end of MR's campaign at contests like sunset, waimea, and haleiwa, and witnessing a
changing of the guards with people like Tom Curren, Occy, and Cheyne Horan pushing forward. It was also a time in Hawaii when another changing of guards was taking place when people like Michael and Derek Ho, Dane Kealoha, Marvin Foster, and
Others were passing while new faces were Coming on the scene. Sunny Garcia, Dino Miranda, Hans Hedeman.
It was great time to be growing up and witness this evolution in the sport.